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Issey Miyake, who died Aug. 5 of cancer, was a true visionary. His passion knew few bounds. The world is familiar with his signature pleats, but his legacy extends far beyond what hangs on clothes racks in shops and homes.

From the start of his international career in the 1970s, Miyake was relatively indifferent to runway trends. Always careful to call his work “clothing” and not “fashion,” he constantly experimented with materials and construction to conceive countless innovative garments, accessories and installations.

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